Spoturno 1921
Extrait de Parfum, Spoturno (2021)

Spoturno (Francois Coty's birth surname) 1921 uses the original formula for Emeraude in 1921, taking great care to use as many of the materials as possible given modern regulations and restrictions. This is a treasure in that it gives one an opportunity to experience Emeraude parfum as it was originally intended, long before the myriad formulations in the decades that would follow.

An opening of sparkling citrus, lemon and bergamot, soon mellowed by a lavender absolute and a billowy heliotrope contrasting with a cool violet. The addition of caraway can be discerned in a notable, spicy, bittersweet caraway. The floral heart presents that compelling abstraction that would typify perfumes of the day, where all participants begin to harmonize as a whole, with an overall green aromatic quality that elevates the experience. This includes a woody, anisic quality (perhaps courtesy of the caraway) that reveals that this has a shape-shifting quality to it. The florals begin to feel more like velvet, as the tonka and musks wash over and seal the flowers in their creamy warmth.

I reviewed Barbicaja yesterday, it's lovely but I'm not a big fan of Orange Blossom. This doesn't have orange blossom, it might be even better. I'll write more eloquently later, I'm just giddy with excitement because its so good. I can only compare it to wearing the nicest professionally tailored suit. Everything is of a high standard, people who know will know. People who aren't too well versed in perfume will notice you smell good, fresh but floral with depth. It would be unusual because it does not fit the current shouting fruity and gourmand body sprays that are called niche perfume. It's maybe a bit quirk. I just need to decide if I need the extrait de parfum or the regular line. Choices choices

Edit: The extrait is insane, there is so much more depth and nuance. The opening is the brightest lemony green experience in a long time. It's so natural and fresh but doesn't smell overly synthetic because there is so much nuance and layers.

(Review of the EdP and the extrait)
Maybe they should have called this perfume Lazarus. Spoturno and Sheldrake rolled away the stone at the tomb of this Francois Coti composition, and commanded that it come out and live once again. Did they succeed? Yes, Emeraude lives on, but this isn’t a glorious resurrection, more like the walking dead. On my left arm and hand is the EdP, and on the right is the extrait. They're both virtually the same, and they are basically Shalimar. Couple notable exceptions: 1) the herbal notes at the top, which are more pronounced in the extrait than the EdP. I guess this part is more like Habit Rouge than Shalimar. 2) The dose of ylang-ylang in the heart adds a tropical and citrusy sprinkle to standard florals (but that's an old trick too. Name the perfume.) The powdery and tissue-paper bergamot at the top; Guerlain. The abstract white and pink floral middle stitched together with a dry woody amber base; Guerlain. Additionally, unlike Shalimar or Habit Rouge, the 1921 duo lack richness and depth.

The extrait I've reapplied twice today, and at 7pm it's barely detectable. Unacceptable for an extrait that costs more than $600 (as of today). The EdP actually seems to have relatively more oomph and life. Lazarus is alive, but only if your definition of the word is loose. I'm not impressed, but do I like it? Yes, of course. How can you not. It’s a winning formula. Where it arguably is better at being Guerlain than Shalimar/Habit Rouge is with a lightness that is really very nice, but it comes at the cost of richness, depth, and longevity. So, now I've tried all five of the initial Spoturno perfumes, the EdP and the extrait of 1921, Alphee, Barbicaja, and L'Ame du Phenix. That's four strikes, with Phenix being the only one I've worn that I am happy and impressed with. Call it a new maison finding their identity, if you will, but if their identity is using a unique voice like Sheldrake to rehash 100-year-old recipes done much better by others at significantly cheaper prices, what are they making except for museum pieces? Museum pieces aren’t in your home, little alone on your skin.