Tulipano Nero
I Profumi di Firenze

Tulipano Nero was introduced to me during a visit to Pickwick's Mercantile in Portsmouth NH while I was sampling selections from I Profumi di Firenze. Opening with the soapy sparkle of aldehydic lily, it settles into a darkly floral and resinous heart. Its most forward notes are ylang ylang and myrrh, with the narcotic yellow floral of the former forming an alluring contrast with the bittersweet spicy earthiness of the latter.

What I love about it is that it's a deconstruction of the floral amber structure found in Opium or Cinnabar, where there's no clear articulation of the florals and resins, making it hypnotic and amorphous, no seams can be detected. Yet in a way, it showcases the beauty of its discrete elements in a prismatic manner, similar to the holographic rose of Guerlain Nahema. It's as mystifying in feel as Serge Lutens La Myrrhe, with the myrrh exalted through the aldehydes and ylang ylang and then anchored into the dry down via musk and vetiver.

It's among the best from I Profumi di Firenze.

Yes, a dandy-retro fragrance, kind of nostalgic, vaguely bohemien, aristocratic and courtesan. Dark orchid, languid rose, supposedly dianthus, soapy ylang-ylang and balsams are quite dominant under my vulgar nose. Tulipano Nero is supremely floral, almost indolic/potpourri and definitely decadent. A sort of Il Profvmo Black Dianthus-twin, being either dark and sinister as a decrepit nobiliar building in a Charles Dicken's novel (Great Expectations).

Tulipano is quite interesting in that it smells sort of removed from time. It is classic, modern, and moderate at once. I showed this one to two of my sisters (in their early teens) and they both enjoyed it, not once complaining about its retro aspects. Is it the omission of oakmoss that makes it more contemporary? Is it the velvety, magenta smell and texture of the bygone l'Arte di Gucci? I couldn't tell you, but I can say that this is a well-composed floral and a decent performer which is well worth seeking out.

Retro fragrance, dark and sultry like the old Chypres, resinous and spicy, with florals that growl rather than flutter. The dominant note to my nose is myrrh, warm, weird, and evocatively nostalgic. If I were pressed to identify a floral, it would be a cool, spring bulb flower. If you still have an old bottle of Norell or you love Knowing and perfumes of that ilk, than you owe it to yourself to sniff out this modern version of the same type of fragrance. Pretty amazing, but not for the department store crowd.

Notes found on web: Rose, lily of the valley, ylang ylang, bitter orange, mandarin, bergamot, vanilla orchid, myrrh and vetiver.

I liked this well enough to buy it. A dark rose and Vetiver tapestry effect cleverly interwoven with other favorite notes of mine. Especially bitter orange, mandarine, myrrh, ylang ylang and bergamot. I find this dark and spicy. Aptly named. Great silage, too. No complaints.

Notes found on web: Rose, lily of the valley, ylang ylang, bitter orange, mandarin, bergamot, vanilla orchid, myrrh and vetiver.

I'm giving this a thumbs up because its unique and well made, but personally I'd give it a neutral. There is something going on here that brings to mind the image of a chip in bone china. It's cutting that way, flawed.

That it wants to be a spicy floral is evident, and I'm surprised not to see ginger here. Not the spicy, burning ginger but the feisty kind you find along the waterfalls tucked away in Kauai's grand canyon.

I just want to fill in that chip, make the plate smooth again. The setting was so perfect that it stands out too strongly. And for a 'black' scent its much too 'white'. Take out that lily of the valley and give it something darker. And get thee to a nunnery, vetiver; this calls for something more sensuous. But still, i would recommend sampling.