Vacances (new)
Jean Patou (2015)

I’ve never smelled the original Vacances, but I have read a fair bit about it and it seems that Thomas Fontaine’s recreation for Collection Heritage has some differences. How faithful this is to the original is a question that I won’t and shouldn’t try to answer. One difference, though, that stands out from what I’ve read others say about the original are the opening notes. In Vacances CH there is a shockingly dry and bitter green galbanum, like very underripe green bell peppers. The original green note is described to be a bit sweet; this is not. To make sure the bitter greenness doesn’t become too much, there is a note of floral and sweet mimosa filling in the gaps. I’m not sure what to say about the opening, except to say that it is startling. And not startling in a pleasantly surprising grin-across-my-face way, it’s more of an uncomfortable startle. It’s really attractive but it makes my guard go up.

Vacances moves quite quickly to the heart though, where my guard instantly goes down as I’m swaddled in the prettiest and gentlest of lilac and hyacinth. Powdery purple and white, it’s an aroma on the breeze of a warm spring morning thanks to a bed of gentle soapy musks at the base. It’s incredibly simple. There are no clever tricks or interesting things to pick apart with Vacances, it’s just very simply beautiful. It tenses you up a bit at the start, and quickly but very gently relaxes you down. Every note is pitch perfect, and easy to understand. An underrated gem from a brand most unfortunately and most undeservedly dying a slow and painful death.

Vacances is a lovely, soft lilac - sweet but not cloying - springtime in a bottle. Unfortunately, it is more of a cologne than an EdT and does not last more than an hour on me - longer if sprayed on clothing. The silage is intimate. Patou collectors will find it worth seeking out a bottle IF you can find one for a good price before they all disappear (I curse you, LVMH). It is an unusual Patou as it is not complex, but also beautiful in its simplicity. If you want a nice lilac soliflore, there are probably good options out there for much less money from 4711, Yardley, et al.

A lovely, easy-to-wear floral. Clear and sharp without any powder. A little bit soapy but I love lots of frags that people say smell soapy anyway. I don’t get any hyacinth but lots of lilac which I love. Accidentally layered Eric Butebaugh’s Apollo on top and the combo is amazing.

Blue Nude by Pablo Picasso 1902

On my skin the opening blast is a fresh blend of lilac with a hesperidic undertone, which makes the lilac much brighter than it normally would be. Very nice! This freshness evaporates with time, a growing galbanum component restores the crisp edge after some time to some extent.

The drydown leads to a floral-centred phase, mainly jasmine and hyacinth, but never does it turn really sweet on me. The base adds a soft civety impression that is, however, quite tame and does not brandish any faecaloid claws in my direction.

The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent and the longevity eight hours.

Even though being a reformulation, which usually - not always though! - means a drop in standard and quality, this is a nice creation for warm spring days, and worthy of taken seriously as a freestanding creation. 3.25/5.

Vacances is a beautiful, very natural smelling, and relatively simple fragrance (especially in comparison to most Patou perfumes), dominated by lilac, against a background of green notes; perfect for spring and summer.

There is very little more I can say about the fragrance itself (if you like lilac, you'll probably love Vacances). The Collection Heritage version of Vacances smells exactly like the original and Ma Collection versions.

(The perfume gets its name as it was created to celebrate the first paid national holidays in France in the 1930s).