L'Esprit Divin
Paul Emilien (2014)

Spicebox woody that decides to throw in the whole perfumers' cabinet, it would appear. Doesn't work. While parts of this perfume have appeal – like the boozy, slightly sour rose in its heart – the whole has a random feel, though the effect being aimed for is clearly the serious spice and florals enriched wood/oud offering that seems a niche must. The woody base is raspy and there is a prolonged shower of nutmeg gratings which is some kind of endurance test. The deep drydown smells like a leather seat that has just been vacated after hours of occupation by an ample posterior.

Excellent "rose/saffronish oudh driven" combo based on a classic connection of saffron, dusty mild spices, an earthy musky violet leaves/rose-accord (royal and neo-Victorian a la Floris Royal Arms Diamond Edition) and woods a la Dueto Parfums City Oud, Perris Montecarlo Rose de Taif or Tiziana Terenzi Gold Rose Oudh although this juice is turned out particularly intense by creamy spices, grapefruit, frankincense and by a final warmly virile animalic note (probably an oudish/musky/rosey civet a la Dusita Oud Infini). Since the opening the dominant floral accord smells earthy and leafy for a while on my skin. A messy tornado of further elements (herbal notes, amber, may be myrrh, floral notes and tobacco leaves) enhances the complexity of the olfactory orchestra. The highly resinous/rosey/animalic spiciness (finally more ambery than musky) conjures me decidedly the Cerchi Nell'Acqua Usmar Venezia's regal balmy/soapy Rinascimental exoticism. Spices and tobacco provide structure and solidity. Paul Emilien L'Esprit Divin is one of the rare resinous oudh/rose's structured renditions. An almost tribal and ritual blend of spices and resins which will definitely inebriate your senses.