Première Danse
Paul Emilien (2014)

My main problem with the Paul Emilien range is that his perfumes seem anonymized. It's as if the great characterful idea of any particular creation is studiously scrubbed of distinguishing aspects to present a safe middle-of-the-road option. Premiere Danse is one of his better offerings but still suffers a bit from this tendency. A warmed-through ambery fruity floral with a boozy tinge this could have been something truly special with a bigger budget for its formula and bolder note differentiation. Instead, its golden glow feels created by light coming through a strip of coloured cellophane rather than from the source itself and it feels pleasant when it could have been a rapturous embrace.
The one gutsy thing about it is a quality labdanum in the base providing resinous complexity and heat – that combined with the bitter orange up top provides a bit of the dancehall rush that this perfume promises. And in the drydown when the floral notes have fled and the dancer is flumped on a chair, the much sturdier amber-oriental that emerges, weighted with redolent spices and resins, is a satisfying – if somewhat chunky – affair.