Nùr
So Oud (2010)

Nùr by So Oud (2010) made a small splash in the niche perfume world at a time just before it was hollowed out by corporate interests, and before prices under these interests doubled or tripled for maybe a third of the quality as a result. Back then, the world was just getting introduced to Stéphane Humbert Lucas, just before he launched his namesake line a few years later and became a bigger force in the luxury perfume world. Back when he composed Nùr for So Oud, the "everything Arabian" craze was taking over Western perfumes, so smart oil magnates and royal princes dumped their millions into starting lines with a gulf flare, but having distribution in Europe or the US. Nowadays, most of those have gone back to just serving themselves or tourist traffic in the UAE, aside from the brands who pump out clones.

So Oud isn't all about oud, but that isn't surprising as many gulf perfume brands just slap the word on things the same way Americans do "perfume" on anything marketed to ladies, or "cologne" on anything marketed to guys. At this point, "oud" is almost a synonym for perfume, and so Nùr is mostly a fruity leathery amber and incense fragrance. Chamomile and osmanthus, mix with orris butter and wormwood to make something sweet yet also sharply aromatic. The amber and leather note coming from castoreum just about suffocate the lemon and jasmine top, punching right up through the structure, yet all of it is saved by a smooth vanilla near the end, with the chamomile making returns now and then. Performance of the "Parfum d'Or" version (50% oil) I tested is outstanding, but I can't speak for the standard 25% eau de parfum.

Nùr would mostly be remade as Soleil de Jeddah by Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 (2013) as one of his house-launching scents. The top is a bit different, but you can tell they're mods of the same creative process, and the one chosen to be Nùr was probably not his favorite. So Oud still exists, but they haven't made any new perfumes since 2016, so I don't know if Stéphane Humbert Lucas is just keeping them in production because they sell and focusing on his own house, or letting stock dry up. Nùr has also been packaged in Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 coffret boxes, so it's unclear if So Oud is just considered a division of the Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 house now. Either way, this is an interesting, smooth amber floral that feels rich, balanced, and worth exploring. Thumbs up

Smells amazing, but since I already have Soleil de Jeddah, I won't be buying this one :) it is basically a less expensive version of this perfume. But like I said, it is a real gem.

A magnificent "neo-old school" laundry-incensey mélange with fruity accents, a powdery soul and hints of final suede. Nur starts with a compelling white hesperidic/incensey accord inebriating, laundry and fruity. There is a slightly fizzy lemony/orangy undertone in this phase which is all at once aromatic, slightly aqueous (because of a fluidy touch of watery camomile) and vaguely earthy/vegetal. In a while the neutral/aromatic laundriness gets to be coloured by marvellous (and cleverly modulated) fruity accents and soapy/balmy "clean" accents. You detect a sort of arcane (reminiscence about your left back childhood in the countryside farm houses) fresh washing aroma which is white/neutral (by a wonderful fresh/aromatic musk-vanilla accord) detergent and fruity/floral at once. You can feel on skin your departed sweet grandmother's caresses and report in mind the dreamy noisy runs along the tight alleys of the medieval sunny town. In the final phase you can feel a vague suede vibe which is anyway slightly veiled by the general musky/fruity soapy freshness. The note of incense (neither burning nor liturgical) in just an aromatic vehicle to enhance all that marvellous aromatic muskiness while the apricot rounds and bevel the hesperidic fizziness with hints of "yummy" colour. You will not inhale just fresh "cleanliness" anyway since the fruity/incensey accord is sweetly spicy, vaguely peppery, penetrating (still slightly fizzy/hesperidic/detergent) and rooty in a way that the outcome is a spark of pungent and almost organic (intimate, musky, almost animalic) sophistication. Excellent performance in longevity and projection. Nothing to add, just enjoy this great juice my friends.

Opening - A delightful herby/incense tangy lemon... ( like a richer better done Chanel
Allure Blanche or Dior Homme Sport )...smells of good ingredients...polite but generous projection...a delicate touch of incense, not churchy or in your face, but adds a nice flavor...lemon/herb/incense well blended, no one seems to dominate, but
play well together...would not really call it a gourmand, but tasty enough to have
an appeal for gourmand fans...has a refreshing feel...even though it is on the rich side the freshness of the lemon/herb makes this a suitable contender for a summer
fragrance...to me does have a feel of something Oriental...Middle - The citrus slowly changes from lemon to an apricot flavor...the transition is very subtle and beautifully
executed...this is backed up by a scent of amber coming up from underneath the citrus...the scent has an overall gentle sweetness than never gets cloying...just get a
very faint whiff of vanilla now and then...scent has warmth and freshness working together...scent has a richness that strandles a line somewhere between the syrupy
richness of Lutens and the opulence of Amouage...Base - a very discreet/polite leather slowly makes its appearance...leathery drydown nicely accented with what I
get as a well blended combo af mostly amber/musk...
Overall I love this scent enough to consider it bottle worthy...Its on the exotic side
but smells nice enough to be able to put this in regular rotation for wear...I would
feel safe wearing this to the office...