Sandalwood Sacré
Le Jardin Retrouvé (1979)

I recently discovered this brand in spite of its apparently long history, and was struck by the polarizing reviews of Sandalwood Sacré, especially on Scentbird, where it was eviscerated for smelling "old man/old lady", "dated," "stale," and my favorite, "not sweet enough." I naturally wanted very badly to sample it, and sure enough, I love it, for probably all of the same reasons these reviewers do not. It is in no way a modern approach to sandalwood: with its bright, verdant opening, combination of aldehydes and ylang ylang, and tart, leafy petitgrain, this surely would be jarring to the Baccarat Rouge 540 crowd. It is far more reminiscent of a time of mid-century elegance, somewhat resembling a greener Chanel Bois des Iles, but less vanillic and more sandalwood forward.

Yes, the sandalwood: it has that balance of soft, buttery, sharp, nutty, with powdery undertones. petitgrain veers into orange blossom in its heart, feeling somewhat hopeful, yet melancholic. It is intimate, yet not fragile, it is underpinned with a patchouli, rendering the experience a bit more fleshy and woody in its dry down. There are moments that do remind me of the well-worn interior of a place of devotion. Soft, musky, gentle reminders linger throughout the day, and the surprise of a creamy sillage elicits a frisson here and there. This is one that I would include among those fragrances best suited for more meditative moments, for which I am carving out more in my life over time. I would argue that this would appeal to those who appreciate classic and vintage perfume that deviates somewhat from the template and treads new frontier. 

A powdery-soapy sandalwood, with a modicum of citrus for body and sweetness. That musky soapiness pulls me from the sacred grove and one foot into the Hindu temple laundry room. Otherwise, it's a beautiful blend—my dryer sheets should only smell this good.

Milky sandalwood, with an overall result reminding me of sunscreen. Nice but not essential in my book, and abysmal projection doesn't help loving it. A pass for me.