Violette Kew
Eau de Parfum, Le Jardin Retrouvé (2024)

There is so much doubt when it comes to modern fragrance, and I am the first to admit that I can often add to it, when there is just so much released today that fails to inspire. The cynicism cuts through the spirit like a dull knife. A lot of niche has caved in to the norm, with trite concepts led by a flattened culture dictated by algorithms and research methods. Others often flail for relevance, with inflated narratives that simply embellish indistinct smoky ennui and poorly applied accords.

There are perfumers and houses that still do surprise me, though, Maxence Moutte and his contributions for Le Jardin Retrouve have struck a chord with me. Violette Kew in particular is a daring ode to the humble violet, not exactly the most fashionable modern perfume accord but one I hold dear to my heart. Here, it feels so wide-eyed and full of hope, even as it is shaded in with cumin and cardamom, giving it some grizzled wisdom. This violet is somewhere between the watery-green and powdery parma, as stimulating to my nose as a sun shower is to my soul.

The foundation is that of a modern, yet tempered sandalwood and some cedar that recalls that of SL Bois de Violette, and while beautiful and painterly as that creation is, Violette Kew surpasses it in its intelligibility. It has clean lines and pure contour, kissed with a peachy facet, and cool in temperature. It certainly enough to wash away the cynicism and assure that there are modern noses that can arouse with their craft.